Day 7.
On to Christchurch. A long drive through Otago, confirming just how like England it is in many respects – although I suspect that it would be a lot drier without the almost ubiquitous irrigation systems in the fields here. It is very green and fertile-looking. When I was outside the car for a while, there was even the constant sound of songbirds in the background. I have had to buy myself a hat, there has been so much sunshine here, which I suspect is not typical, so we have been pretty fortunate with the weather so far, also.
Christchurch is an interesting city. Much was erased in the earthquake of 2001 (?) and much not yet rebuilt – cash flow is the problem. Even the (Anglican) cathedral has not had restoration commenced. The council are doing a good thing though and cracking down on high-rise development naw that they have a chance and excuse: nothing more than 28m high (6 storeys).
Notes for John and Mark, coming here soon: there is an excellent tram which can take you on a circular tour of the middle of the city for NZ$25. Ticket valid all day, as many trips as you want. We went an absolutely superb fine dining place – Twenty Seven Steps, on New Regent St., highly recommended. However it was NZ$180 for 2 people (three courses, with drinks).
Day 8.
Started off in Christchurch, following the transalpine route over central South Island. First stop was to look at the waterfall in the Devil’s Punchbowl on Arthur’s Pass, then to climb up the walls of the pass to the Temple Basin. This is well above the pass, and it was stiff climb for us up a very rough track. We were puzzled because there was a ski area shown in the Temple Basin. We could see no chairlift, and as the track up became rougher and rougher we speculated: did everyone get up by four-wheel drive, then did everyone get up by snowmobile, finally did everyone get up by helicopter ?!?! We reached the top, and the ski area was tiny – three buildings and just two drag-lifts, neither of which was very long. The building turned out to be run by an university ski-club from Christchurch/Canterbury – so I guess that they all walk up! Enthusiasm knows no boundaries, is all we can say.
We then followed the road on down Arthur’s Pass. This is the route of the transalpine railway also. Single track and very little used these days, I fear. We didn’t see a moving train at any point during the day (although it could have been in the 8.5km tunnel in the highest section).
We then went on to the Hokitika Gorge, which is very impressive. The suspension bridge to get up the gorge and the pathways/boardwalks are very well done – the NZ Dept. of Conservation do a very good job, I believe.
Notes for John and Mark: the transalpine express might be fun to do. Perhaps drop a hire car in Christchurch and pick up a new one in Hokitika? Or a return trip? We had a good and inexpensive meal at The Kitchen in Hokitika.