Just an update.  Partly because of the difficulty painting behind the driving wheels, and partly because I realised that I needed to put the balance weights on the wheels (and this would probably be much easier if I could lie them flat), I partly dismantled what I had done so far to put together the chassis.  Also I realised that the return cranks were on at an exaggerated angle, and although this makes the valve gear move more satisfyingly, I should probably re-do the soldering to make it more realistic (10 degrees is right).

Of course to put the balance weights on is easier said than done. First of all I had to choose exactly which 8F I wanted to model! I found a picture of number (4)8067 which seems to have the right characteristics: a rivetted tender, balance wheels of the earlier type (not all of the weights are crescents) and based in the north of England. So number 8067 it will be.

Both types of weights are supplied in the MOK etches, as pairs (so four of each shape). Using the S7 Group Slaters wheels makes sandwiching the pairs of etches together relatively easy, one on each side of each wheel: the plastic spokes can be cut back a little to accommodate the etches. Not too much on the outer side, though, as the balance weights stand proud of the rims on the pictures I have seen.

I then filled in the gaps between the etches with Milliput filler.

Now seemed a good time to use Birchwood Casey metal black on the rods and valve gear, to obtain a good “polished steel” finish. I used Hi-Chem “All-Surface Primer” on the wheels (probably only available in Australia, but I’m sure motorcar paint shops anywhere would have a similar product) – it’s a marvellous very thin and very effective metal primer: it sticks to anything, in my experience even glass or granite benchtops! Therein lies a separate story, as you might imagine ….

Finally, a “dirty black’ initial topcoat. My engine is going to have a realistic (I hope) weathered appearance.

So there you are.

David